It’s always been a little easier for me to think of “cold weather meals” when it comes time to use up pantry staples. Pasta and chickpeas can be whipped into a cozy pasta e ceci. Coconut milk and rice are the building blocks for a decadent, cinnamon-infused rice pudding. And I’ve never come across a pile of shelf-stable ingredients that I couldn’t use to start at least a hearty stew.
Until this week, I found myself increasingly stunned when I wanted to “shop my closets” for dinner, but nothing sounded delicious amid a series of small heat waves. For the past week, the Salon Food team has been celebrating summer tomato season by publishing a variety of recipes, how-tos, and guides.
When I read Joy Saha’s comprehensive guide to summer tomatoes, with a recipe for Spanish salmorejo, I realized that gazpacho was the answer to my summer pantry problems. Like salmorejo, gazpacho is a cool, summery soup made by mixing a variety of vegetables with oil until the mixture becomes smooth and decadent. Where salmorejo keeps it simple by using only tomato and garlic, there is more flexibility with gazpacho.
Traditionally, gazpacho consists of tomato, bell pepper, onion, cucumber and garlic – enriched with a little bit of sherry vinegar and lots of good olive oil. When I checked my pantry, I found a large can of diced tomatoes, a tub of roasted red peppers, and plenty of oil and vinegar.
As I was about to close the cabinets, I also noticed a nice can of anchovies.
Earlier this summer, I was asked by Dan Waber of Rainbow Tomatoes Garden in Pennsylvania to try canned fish and tomatoes. Waber’s Rainbow Tomatoes Garden is a farm stall that sells 80 different varieties of tomatoes, as well as the largest selection of canned fish in the world.
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Waber and I were emailing about a project when I asked how he’d become famous for that combination. He said it came from his personal taste: “I thought, ‘I don’t know if anyone wants to buy canned fish from a farm, but ventresca (the belly of the tuna) is traditionally served with tomatoes – and a mackerel sandwich, lettuce and tomato is damn good – so let’s see.'”
If you’ve never cooked with anchovies, it’s kind of a secret ingredient.
He started with one order for a box of a few different types of ventresca and mackerel each, and they sold out the first day. It was a proof of concept for Waber’s company, of course, but it’s also proof of how well canned fish and tomatoes work together. Then why not try gazpacho with a little anchovy infusion?
If you’ve never cooked with anchovies, it’s kind of a secret ingredient. When they hit hot oil, they sizzle until completely dissolved, giving the oil a salty, savory kick that doesn’t taste fishy at all. You can use this oil to enhance braised meats, pasta sauces and roasted vegetables. In short, anywhere you would use oil, but also want a boost of flavor.
Such is the case with this gazpacho. The anchovy oil—combined with the juicy tomatoes, refreshing cucumber, and sharp onion and garlic—adds an understated flavor to the cold soup, making it all the better for enjoying crusty bread.
Canned Fish and Tomatoes Gazpacho
Cooking time
10 minutes, plus chill time
Ingredients
- 28 ounces canned, diced tomatoes
- 4 ounces roasted red peppers
- 1/2 white onion, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 English cucumber, coarsely chopped
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
- 1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 1-3 anchovies
- crispy bread
Travel directions
- In a large blender or food processor, combine the tomatoes, roasted red pepper, onion, cucumber, and garlic. Blend until incredibly smooth, about 90 seconds. Put aside.
- In a small saucepan, heat the olive oil until it begins to simmer and quickly add anchovies to taste. (The anchovies will lose their “fishiness,” so it’s really a matter of how spicy you want the umami-salt flavor they give the oil.) Once the anchovies have dissolved, remove the oil from the heat and let it cool. to room temperature.
- With the engine running, add the oil to the vegetable mixture in a steady stream. It should have a creamy consistency and a vibrant color. When it’s thick and completely smooth, add the sherry vinegar and give it a final blitz to combine.
- Then remove the mixture from the blender and pour it into a sealable container. (I love these big glass jars.)
- Let the gazpacho cool for at least 4 hours (it will keep for about a week in the fridge). Serve with an extra drizzle of olive oil and plenty of crusty bread.
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